Super Cub SPEED 400 Electric

I am currently building this cub project, after 20 years of not building. Its really not for the first time builder, but the second time would be better. The instructions are there, but not too clear. Some ponts could be better explained. I dont like the ARF's in the world. I am a structural designer, so....
The company needs to design a Citabria, Tiger Moth, Cessna 170 type kits in this Speed 400 size.
They would be a hit. I will post an update after the first few flights.
Great Kit so far...

I am in the process of building the Super Cub Speed 400 balsa kit. Having built my first balsa kit over 50 years ago, and, finding something missing, in this age of ARF planes, I am enjoying the true model building experience. Even though the sheet balsa parts are die-cut, the accuracy of the cuts is superb, and the quality of the stock is high. The structures build light, but are strong. Some neat design features are included in this model, like easily-removable lift struts. I am looking forward to many hours of relaxing flying with this plane. I would recommend the Super Cub Speed 400 for anyone wanted to enjoy the experience of building and flying something that they have created and know intimately. This plane provides that missing element of model building pleasure. It may not be ideal for the first-time balsa builder or one looking for a quick-build project. The kit could be improved by upgrading the motor mount design to accommodate a suitable brushless outrunner motor for an overall lighter airplane. Laser-cut balsa sheet parts would be a nice modernizing touch as well.

This was my second balsa kit since returning to the hobby after about a 30 year layoff. All the materials were complete and easily identifiable. The instructions and plans are clear and concise. I had no problem following each and every step. This kit took me about 5 or 6 evenings to assemble from start to finish.

The only problem I had with the assembly was that I trimmed the windshield too much. Simple to fix though, I simply cut a piece of clear plastic packaging from another item I had recently purchased. Replaced the stock windshield perfectly.

I covered it in the same silver and red as in the pics that accompany the kit. I did upgrade it to a brushless motor, but only because all my speed controllers are brushless and I already had both motor and esc available.

The plane is a gentle flyer without any nasty habits. It flies just like you would expect a cub to fly, slow and easy.

Though Hobby-Lobby lists the kit as Intermediate, I think this would make a great kit for the first time builder as well. Just read the instructions thoroughly and take your time.

Personal review on SuperCub speed 400.

In a new world of arfs and foamies, the art of building, covering, detailing and flying a R/C airplane is almost extinct. This is especially so in people new to the hobby. I began building "stick and tissue" models at the age of nine. This blossomed into a 31 year obsession with R/C aircraft. One of my all time favorite aircraft was, of course, the Piper Cub. I have flown every cub from rubber powered up to quarter scale over the years, and all that I can say is, Nothing flies like a Cub. The second airplane I ever ordered from Hobby Lobby was, in fact, the Super Cub Speed 400. If I only was allowed one sentence for a review it would have to be, I have never had more fun for $35.00 than I have had with this Cub. I purchased the kit about four years ago, and I have to be honest, I purchased it only because I needed to spend 30 more dollars to put my order in the next savings bracket during a huge "percent off" sale. I received the box, opened it, looked it over, closed it and placed it on my shelf of "a million projects to someday build". A few months later, I realized that I had a few micro servos, a receiver and a brushless motor that would work in this kit and decided to build it.
THE KIT:
Box contents included strip and sheet wood, a plastic canopy, window plastic, wire for gear, and a rolled plans. There was no damage to all.
BUILDING THE KIT:
As a person who has built at least 100 airplanes over 35 years, this kit was not much of a challenge. However, building a Cub can be a challenge to get straight as you have to build two stick fuse sides and complete the fuse by adding crossmembers along the top and bottom. In this situation, I would normally (and recommend to new builders) make a jig by tracing the top view of the fuse onto a piece of one inch foam, ( pink insulation foam works great), cutting that out and sandwiching the stick fuse sides on it. While pinned on the top view with the foam fuse in the middle, glue the rearmost vertical stringer together and add crossmembers beginning at the front of the fuse and working aft. It is also a good idea to hold a 90 degree triangle on each side to insure each side is perpendicular to the building board. Once all crossmembers are in and the few top formers are glued in, and you insure the fuse is straight, you can slide the foam out of the front. If you run into problems removing it you can cut it into pieces with a sharp hobby knife or you can even cut it with a thin soldering iron. At the time, I chose to take my chances and did not make a jig, but my fuse went together so easily and was completely straight. The balsa was of excellent quality and I framed up the fuse in one evening with thin CA. The only modification I made was to make a small hatch on the underside of the fuse between the firewall and landing gear for battery removal. I secured the hatch with two small rare earth magnets.
The tail sections are pretty straight forward and built directly over the plan as per kit specifications.
The wing was built in normal fashion over the plan in three sections and were joined with braces that yielded a strong straight wing. I did modify the wing by adding ailerons that the kit did not specify. This is simply done by building the wing as needed and using a sharp knife to cut the ribs where you want the ailerons to go and removing. Since the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the aileron has to be added,what I typically do is decide what thickness strip balsa will be used, place the two strips together and lay them over the ribs where you want the hinge to be. In this case, I used a 1/8 piece for the wing and a 1/2 piece for the aileron(as this will be needed to sand a 30 degree angle later). I placed them about 1.5 inches from the trailing edge to make a 1.25 aileron (front edge of the 1/2 strip to the trailing edge of the wing). After placing the strip on the ribs, make two marks on each rib (front and back) and that is where you will cut each rib so that the two strips will slide right in. I made my ailerons four ribs wide. make the appropriate cuts in each rib, hold the two strips together, and slide them in from the top. Glue each strip to their appropriate ribs(1/8 to wing and 1/2 to aileron. At this point you will need to make four sub ribs for each wing. Glue one sub rib to the respective inner surface of the wing and glue one to each outer surface of the aileron. This is all done on the plan. After the glue dries, cut the trailing edge of the wing in a line consistent with the gap made by the two subribs on each side of the aileron and remove your aileron. At this point, you can sand to final shape so there is enough of a gap on each side for the aileron to move freely. Finally, you must take each aileron and sand the 1/2 strip at an angle so that the aileron will freely move up and down while hinged. This is most easily done by using a sanding block and sanding the bottom of the strip to make a consistent edge from the top of the leading edge of the aileron to the rear edge of the bottom of the strip. This configuration will make an easy to make covering hinge. With the micro servos out there today, I decided to put a servo in each wing in lieu of a strip aileron set. Keep in mind that if you decide to add ailerons to this model, and use a servo for each aileron, you will need to construct a servo box on each wing as well as cut a hole in each rib to run servo wire inside the wing. It is better to cut a hole in each rib from the first rib medial to where you you will place the aileron servo before you frame up the wing. A servo box is created by simply gluing two 1/4 inch basswood across the first (medial) rib spaces (front and back) that will leave an opening to screw the servo into at a height that the arm will protrude enough below the bottom wing surface and turn freely. Glue two balsa strips between these two strips perpendicularly which will lay to each side of the servo which will be sanded flush with the bottom of the wing so that you can cover up to it and leave a square hole to insert the servo after covering. The bottom of the aileron will need a piece of flat balsa between corresponding ribs to support a control horn.
This may sound complicated, but its really not. Anyone who has ever built a balsa kit with ailerons will easily understand this procedure, those who haven't will realize its ease when they see the wing in front of them and are not just visualizing it by reading this. Keep in mind too that this airplane will turn just as good with rudder only but with the addition of ailerons, will yield a great aerobatic experience.
FINAL FINISHING:
After final sanding the plane went together with ease. I covered the model with typical lightweight covering, painted the cowl to match and added that and glued the windshield and windows in place. I bent the wire supplied for the landing gear, wrapped it in copperwire and soldered it solid. I even took more wire and bent crossmembers like the full scale Cub. After covering, I drilled small 1/64 holes on the wood supporting the gear and used thin fishing line to wrap the wire to the fuse and applied CA. This yields a strong, scale forgiving gear. I used micro servos for all surfaces. In addition, I decided to use a small brushless motor and speed control I had from a previous foamie and modified the firewall to suit it. If you are new to electric the Hobby Lobby website has an excellent "motor selector" tool in which you provide the weight, type, etc of your craft and they will give you a good size AXI motor to use. I have used this tool several times with other airplanes and thay have been right on. You can also call and speak to anyone in the customer service department and they will help you choose a motor with with great results.
FLYING:
As stated earlier, I have flew all sorts of Cubs. With full throttle, this model flies like a its on steriods, at 1/3 throttle, it will slowly cruise around like a full scale Cub. The point to be made here is that it flies no different than a 1/4 scale Cub with one exception: I take this airplane off and land it in my driveway. I taxi the Cub to the end of my driveway, turn it around, take off, climb to 100 feet in about 4 seconds, execute every maneuver a R/C airplane can do, chop the throttle and drop it onto my driveway and flair it out to a perfect three point landing. At times, I will take it to the local high school and use the parking lot. I can take off do a full bank and circle it to land where I just took off with a 10 foot radius over and over. I have taken a tape measure and recorded 4 foot take offs. It is simply amazing.
After flying this plane for two weeks I ordered another to replace it because I found myself getting too wild with it. That was three years ago and the second kit is still unopened on my shelf. I've had to make repairs over the years like recovering the bottom wing tips from skidding them on the asphalt trying to break my 10 foot diameter tough and go, but that's basically it. I have also ordered a third and gave it to my father who has just as much fun as I do.
I remember as a kid being a R/C pilot meant loading your 40 sized ship in the car and driving to the flying field for the day flying and cleaning up the oil off the plane, reloading it and driving home to put it away. I always dreamed of something small enough to fly around the back yard. With the park flyer revolution this became possible years ago but in my opinion, this is one of the few airplanes that flies just like a 40 size to a 1/4 scale kit. The only difference is its size. I have logged probably over 75 flights on this little Cub and I find each time that I uncontrollably giggle as I fly it. That's when you know that "this is the most fun you have ever had for $35.00".

This is a 5-star kit for those that love to build PatTritle's stick and tissue models. But in all honesty, many people will find this method of construction challenging. Some of the stringers were made from balsa that was too soft so they broke easily while other parts were being constructed. Its easy to replace them with a scrap or to glue the break with a drop of CA.
I happened to have an old Mini-Olympus gear drive so that's what I used but there are many smaller, lighter brushless motors that would work even better.
The price is right and this is a good kit for a teen to build with their mentor to see how planes can be built with wood, instead of assembled from foam.